What exactly is hydrated skin? I have watched a lot of Doctor Gary Linkov videos on YouTube. There was one where he covered fat loss in the face and pointed out that we have more of it in our youth. There is a plumpness associated with the perception of youthfulness—or hydration. Hydrated skin needs collagen, hyaluronic acid and elastin. Until our early twenties, production of these remains high, and therefore, you see naturally plump and voluminous skin. That changes after your mid-twenties, and so from there, you have to look to products and treatments to retain your skin's voluminosity. However, skincare routines are not one-size-fits-all, so your routine is what is right for your skin, your lifestyle, and the amount of time you want to spend on and engaging with products and practices. Here, I cover eight approaches to improve the hydration, plumpness and voluminosity of your skin. Pick one or a few. It is January, after all, the ideal moment to prioritise and think about the commitments we will make to ourselves in 2025.
Eat foods abundant in Vitamin C to promote collagen production
Without Vitamin C, you are without collagen, so consume citrus, the entire fruit, not the juice, berries, tropical fruits, dark leafy greens, tomatoes and bell peppers. Vitamin C has many roles within the epidermal and dermal layers. It can speed up the rate of healing and is also involved in the synthesis of collagen. But it is also a free radical scavenger internally and can decrease cellular damage via oxidative stress, which presents as ageing.
Start prioritising sleep (if you aren’t already)
Sleep is vital in managing stress, and stress will age you, so prioritising your sleep should be a priority. We should all aim for 7-9 hours of quality sleep per night—the deep and rem sleep cycles are your most restorative, so optimizing those is key. Welltory has further information on improving your sleep quality.
To support deep restorative sleep, consider: Moon Juice Magnesi-Om paired with the SLIP Silk Sleep Mask.
Facial massage and sculpting
By gently massaging your face [Google facial yoga], you speed up circulation and bring more oxygen to the tissue, resulting in brighter, healthier skin! You also stimulate the muscle tissue, improving your skin's volume and combating atrophy. Facial massage is an important part of any non-invasive skin care regimen. My Herbal B Peel incorporated a pressurised facial massage to press the herb preparation into my pores. I highly recommend it if you can find a practitioner. When I got up, I felt refreshed and had a burst of energy. My skin looked good and was glowing. Each day following the texture continued to improve, the glow brightened, and my complexion felt more even and clear. I also use a facial gua sha twice a week.
Tools: Quiet Hours Facial Ice Roller, by oli oli sculpting tool, FACEGYM Multisculpt
Facial acupuncture
I am starting acupuncture this week. While not initially for my face [hormonal balance], after extensive reading, I have discovered acupuncture has cosmetic applications. With facial acupuncture, the premise is the same: It brings qi into the face and scalp, stimulating blood flow and, much like the premise of derma needling, stimulating collagen production that will improve your skin texture and work to heal acne and reduce the appearance of acne scarring. Multiple acupuncture sessions would be required to see results. In particular, if you were looking to reduce scarring or fine lines, then ten or more. I had considered purchasing a micro needling device, but I am not sure now. Doctor Gary Linkov recommends micro needling should be performed in-office for reasons covered here. Whichever needle approach you decide, do your research.
Use physical exfoliants
I love physical exfoliation. It deep cleans your pores and makes your skin look less blah. Without it, all those dead cells build up and sit there on your face, so it is a good idea to scrub the surface. With exfoliation, you can also combine facial massage, moving the product in circles from the centre of your face out to your hairline. That way, you’re recirculating and stimulating blood flow as you resurface and unclog your pores. I exfoliate three to four times each week.
Exfoliators I use or have used and love: Aesop Purifying Facial Exfoliant Paste, Youth to the People Yerba Mate Resurfacing Energy Facial, Tata Harper Regenerating Cleanser
Incorporate retinol into your skincare routine
Retinol is another term for Vitamin A. Retinoids refer to all the Vitamin A derivatives in the retinoid chemical family that work to regulate cell development, stimulate collagen and elastin production, inhibit collagen breakdown, boost circulation, and increase collagen synthesis within the skin, amongst other activities. Retinoids should only be used as part of your PM regime, as UV light may cause degradation. If you are new to retinol or have skin sensitivity, start with using retinol 1-2 times per week. As your skin becomes more tolerant, increase usage to 3-4 times a week. And don’t forget your SPF! Consult Amandine’s list of reef safe sunscreens if you are yet to familiarise yourself with physical zinc sunscreens. She has done all the work for you!
It is unclear whether topical Vitamin C does much but if you are using a Vitamin C serum or similar, pair it with retinol. The degree to which topical Vitamin C can penetrate the skin is unclear, but you might be optimising your results here. This is because retinol sends the message to make collagen, but the rate of collagen production is determined by the amount of Vitamin C present in the skin cells. That is why you need to eat those Vitamin C rich foods!
Products I am using: The Ordinary 100% L-Ascorbic Acid Powder, paired with Sunday Riley
A+ High-Dose Retinoid Serum. I would also recommend The Ordinary
Opt for hyaluronic acid serums
Hyaluronic acid is a carbohydrate, or sugar, naturally occurring throughout your body, including connective tissue and eyes, but more than half of it is in your skin. It keeps water in your body’s tissues. Hyaluronic acid can hold up to a thousand times its weight in water, so using hyaluronic acid topically is going to be the equivalent of giving your skin a big drink of water. It is also a no-downside ingredient and can be used by pretty much everyone. To use, you will want to apply your active ingredients first. So if you’re using a retinoid (as above) and/or Vitamin C, they go first, and then hyaluronic acid goes after.
For a hyaluronic-acid-packed serum that also stimulates the skin’s own renewal process, consider the following: The Ordinary Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5, NIOD
Multi-Molecular Hyaluronic Complex, Youth to the People
Triple Peptide + Cactus Oasis Serum
Hydrate with plant-derived glycerine
Glycerine works as a humectant. It attracts moisture from the air into the stratum corneum (top layer of skin) and, due to its low molecular weight, will continue to draw moisture to the deeper layers of the dermis. Thicker products, like those that include glycerine, support the skin barrier and prevent water loss, which is a big part of what we are trying to achieve here. When purchasing, pay close attention to where the glycerine comes from. You will want plant-derived—not animal or palm, as most are. Flax seed and coconut-derived glycerine for example, are options. Look for cruelty-free products. And like hyaluronic acid everyone can benefit from glycerin.
Consider trying: The Ordinary Natural Moisturizing Factors + HA
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